Virginia - Day 12

Here are a few pictures from my last day. We went to the JPA neighbourhood (named after the street, Jefferson Park Avenue) just north of campus, in hopes of trying Charlottesville's most famous restaurant, Thai '99. Unfortunately it was closed, and we found ourselves far from home with thunderclouds brewing above our heads. Luckily we made it back to the apartment just as the storm began to unleash its fury.

Virginia - Day 11

Today we finally found the Rivanna hiking trail. I guess it helps when you don't forget the maps at home. We entered the path via the Woolen Mills neighbourhood, which is centered around an old textiles factory that operated between 1795 and the 1960s and clothed everyone in town, from slaves to soldiers. Some early twentieth century paintings of the area can be seen at the Charlottesville Mayor's blog. There was a little too much wildlife in the forested area near the rugged Rivanna River path, including a million little frogs and mosquitoes, flying beetles, and all sorts of other frightful creepy crawlies, so we took the paved trail instead. It snaked around the eastern border of Charlottesville.

Virginia - Day 10

Independence Day in Charlottesville started with a visit from President Bush, who was heckled all the way through his July 4th speech (see here for the video).


















In the afternoon we decided to go hiking along the Rivanna Trail, a nature trail that follows the circumference of the city. Instead we got lost in the southern suburbs and walked around in circles for about three hours.

































In the evening, we joined the festivities in McIntire Park, where they had all sorts of goodies: turkey legs, funnel cakes, "Sunshine" (Christian?) rock music, and fireworks!

Virginia - Day 9

Today we went to Barracks Shopping Center, which is basically a colossal strip mall on the side of Highway 29. It's so big that the city bus stops at three different points inside.
The parking lot takes up more space than the actual stores, and being surrounded by so many cars got me very excited. Virginians really take car culture to a whole new level, as if their automobile were actually an extension of their home. Or perhaps, judging by the bumper stickers and vanity plates, the cars are actually extensions of themselves?

Virginia - Day 8

Did you know that Virginia is North America’s vanity license plate capital?

Below are a few of the gems I've found around town. There will be more to come. An opportunity like this only comes around once in a lifetime.

Click here for more fun facts about Virginia.

Virginia - Day 7

I've already gone into detail about Charlottesville's two main entertainment districts, the "corner" and the pedestrian mall (below). But perhaps you're wondering what takes place in between? It's a mystery to many tourists since the very smart city tourism board has created a free trolley service that shuttles visitors (and the rare car-less local) between the two areas every fifteen minutes. I'll never know why Thomas Jefferson had the University of Virginia built so far from the courthouse and downtown commercial district, but I do know the reason that they don't want tourists poking around. That's not to say I don't find it attractive, but only in an empty wasteland kind of way.

Virginia - Day 6

In the east end of town is Charlottesville’s attractive pedestrian mall. This eleven-block long strip of Main Street is closed to car traffic and lined with stores, restaurants, bars and cafes. Italian bistros and burger joints spill out into the street in the form of airy patios and there are fountains and street performers providing entertainment. If there's a concert at the open-air amphitheatre straddling the far eastern end, then al fresco diners are also graced with a little background music. The atmosphere at the mall is always boisterous, even in the midst of a thunderstorm, which we experienced today. No one brings an umbrella and so most people huddle under patio coverings or store fronts until the short, but fierce, torrential downpour comes to an end. It doesn't take long before the sun comes back out and the business of sipping wine and chatting with friends resumes.

Virginia - Day 5

Today we stumbled on Court Square, where the historic courthouse and jail are located. The big claim to fame here is that three presidents (Jefferson, Monroe and Madison) all presided over this courthouse at some point during their careers. Parts of the original structures remain intact and the area feels like a sort of outdoor museum with red brick buildings, cobblestoned walkways and a leafy park. Although just a stone's throw from the downtown commercial district, it was completely deserted on this pleasant Sunday.

Virginia - Day 4

On first inspection, this tiny town (population 40,000) is quintessentially southern—the stuff of movies and novels. The iced tea is tart, the cornbread slightly sweet and the deep southern drawl fills the air like music. But Charlottesville itself also embodies elements of a classic American college town. More than half the map is dominated by the University of Virginia in one way or another. Right on the edge of campus, where the commercial Main Street meets UVA's sprawling lawns and red brick buildings is the "corner." Within this three-block soft bend in the road are about twenty bars, restaurants, ice cream parlors and book stores catering to students and their parents and selling everything from Georgia peach slushies to cheap Mexican fast food to underwear with "wahoo" emblazoned across the back. "Wahoo" is a nickname for UVA that originated in the late 19th century when UVA supporters cheered "wahoowa" at baseball games.

Virginia - Day 3

Today I visited the mighty Rotunda, which was designed by Thomas Jefferson and modeled after the Pantheon in Rome. When all but the brick frame was burned to the ground in 1895, the Rotunda was reconstructed with slight modifications, including the addition of extra porticoes and an extended skylight. In an effort to restore the structure to match Jefferson’s original design, the rotunda underwent yet another reconstruction project in 1975. Today it looks just as it did when it was first built in the 1820s.

Virginia - Day 2

Charlottesville, Virginia is where Ben is taking a two-month, intensive colloquial Tibetan language course. The classes are being offered at the University of Virginia, which was founded in 1819 by Thomas Jefferson. UVA enjoys the honor of being the only university in the USA designated as a World heritage site by UNESCO.
Not surprisingly the grounds are impeccably clean; I’ve yet to see even one piece of litter. That’s probably why the squirrels are so scrawny.

Virginia - Day 1

Today I flew to Richmond, Virginia on a putt-putt plane. You know the kind: propellers on the wings, deafening humming, jerky landing. The flight departed from a hidden corner of Pearson Airport, the east hold room, which has replaced the now defunct Terminal 2. Not surprisingly, the plane itself was more than half empty, sparsely populated by a few businessmen, a couple of Richmond locals, and me.
Because there is no easy/cheap way to get to Charlottesville, I took a taxi from Richmond airport to the Greyhound station, and then a bus to downtown Charlottesville. I met a lot of interesting characters on my journey: a male nurse from the Sudan, a taxi driver who believed polar bears roamed Toronto, a handful of former convicts, and a friendly drunk or two.

Here are some photos taken while flying over Richmond's suburbs.

Photo Albums

Two new galleries! You can check them out on the left side of the page.

Exploring Toronto: West Queen West

There's nothing quite like taking a mini-vacation in your own city. It's so liberating to pack up your things, check into a hotel (one you've probably passed a million times before, but never gone inside), and then hit the city streets with fresh, open eyes. One of the best places in Toronto for a little weekend excursion is West Queen West.

West Queen West
What Bay Street is to bankers and investors, Queen Street West is to artists, designers and rebels of any persuasion. Local talents fed up with the Gap-ization of Queen West in the 1990s, have moved shop further west to flee the outbreak of mainstream fashions. After Bathurst Street, where the brick storefronts begin to fray at the edges, the neighbourhood takes on a new identity, known as “West Queen West” or the “Gallery District.” Creative energy and constant innovation, plus the arrival of the über-cool Drake Hotel, has pushed West Queen West’s boundaries all the way past Dufferin Street. But it wasn’t long before the less jaded, borderline-yuppie crowd followed and began to fill up the favorite hangouts of the neighbourhood hipsters. So further west they ran; setting up studios in Parkdale, a formerly run-down, crime-infested quarter. But for all us more modest urbanites, West Queen West is still one of the coolest places in town with its ethnic restaurants, upscale shops, organic day spas and cutting-edge art galleries. It’s a great place to wander; and there are plenty of cafes for refueling along the way. Streetcar #501 spans the entire length of Queen Street West and runs 24 hours.

Where to Stay?

The Drake Hotel (1150 Queen St W; 416.531.5042 or 866.372.5386; www.thedrakehotel.ca; rooms from $199) “The Drake,” a sort of local artists’ clubhouse, has become synonymous with all that is cool, current and cutting edge in Toronto. Stylish rooms, or “Crash Pads,” blend practicality (queen sized beds, flat screen TVs, etc.) with radical design (original artwork, vintage wallpaper, retro furniture, etc.). You’ll find a bar, restaurant and night club under the same roof, so be sure to bring ear plugs if you expect to sleep.

Gladstone Hotel (1214 Queen St W; 416.531.4635; www.gladstonehotel.com; rooms from $175) This hotel feels slightly more refined and subtle than its puffed up neighbour, the Drake Hotel (see previous). The restaurant and bar here have a British pub quality, with rummage sale treasures filling in the nooks and crannies of its wood-paneled interiors. Themed bed rooms, designed by local artists, take hotel decor up a few notches in creativity and sophistication. Room 404, for example, explores “Canadiana,” with a mural of a forest and cottage, fragrant cedar trees and CN rail lines.

Where to Eat?

Fressen (478 Queen St. W; 416.504.5127; reservations essential) The daring vegan haute cuisine here, which brilliantly fuses earthy flavours with French sophistication, is delivered in the form of tapas-style mini-dishes. It all starts with soft olive bread, hummus and tapenade; and could end with strawberries dipped in heavenly dark chocolate. In between, wise choices include creative stuffed pasta (squash ravioli with sesame butter, basil and tomato sauce $9) or a coconut-infused soup ($6).

The Beaconsfield (1154 Queen St W) This boisterous local hangout serves above-average pub grub with creative presentation. West-enders gather in large numbers on Friday nights; and the music gets jacked way up after dining hours. The gourmet burgers served with roasted potatoes are the biggest hits on the menu.

Bacchus Roti Shop (1376 Queen St W) Brave fluorescent lit, cafeteria-type ambiance to sample the best West Indian roti in Toronto.

Tibet Kitchen (1544 Queen St W, closed Tuesday) The closest to Lhasa you'll ever get without boarding a plane, this little Tibetan za khang (restaurant) serves up traditional fare including Tsel Shae Mo (dumplings $5). You know it's good since most of the clientele here is Tibetan.

What to See?

Fu Sien Tong Buddhist Temple (185 Niagara St, south of Queen St W, 416.504.4486) From its location, among a row of average-looking houses, this ruby-red temple with elaborate blue wings, looks ready to take flight. Twice monthly, on Saturday mornings at 11am (call ahead to confirm), join free meditation classes followed by a vegetarian lunch. English is limited here, but that's part of the fun.

MoCCA (952 Queen W, 416.395.0067, www.mocca.toronto.on.ca, closed Monday) The newish Museum of Contemporary Canadian Art has made great headway in the past few years, thanks to the vibrant art community in this neighbourhood. Controversial exhibits such as the collection of Istvan Kantor's canvases painted with his own blood have helped stir up publicity, whether positive or negative, for the MoCCA. The permanent collection boasts works by Paterson Ewen, Betty Goodwin, Micah Lexier, Arnaud Maggs and Roland Poulin, among many others.

Stephen Bulger Gallery (1026 Queen St W, 416.504.0575, closed Sunday, Monday) Documentary and historical photography is featured here. Previous exhibitions have included Canadian greats Robert Giard, Shelby Lee Adams and Larry Towell.

Exploring Toronto: The Hazelton Hotel

Excerpt III from Vegetarian Guidebooks: Toronto (pg. 73)

..."Hazelton Hotel (118 Yorkville Ave; 416.963.6300, 866.473.6301;
www.thehazeltonhotel.com; TTC Bay; rooms from $450; map pg.40) Unofficially dubbed “Toronto’s first five-star hotel,” a title it somehow received before opening, this was the most talked about place in Yorkville during its inaugural month (which happened to coincide with the 2007 Toronto International Film Festival). Word is still out on whether the Hazelton will actually survive in the fierce hotel jungle dominated by the Park Hyatt (see next) and the Four Seasons (see below), but the Hazelton Hotel, an explosion of eye candy, shows serious potential..."

Update: After spending the night, it's obvious that the Hazelton is in a whole category of its own. From the intuitive staff who sense your every need to the rich green marble flowing over every surface in the luxurious bathroom to the 42" TV screen (affixed to a great extending arm), this hotel has truly taken luxury to new heights. Our room had French doors overlooking the boisterous patio of ONE restaurant below and the pleasant street scene of Victorian houses, classy boutiques and leafy trees. So you didn't really need to leave your bed to enjoy life on the street, and an electronic console that controlled the curtains, the virtual "do not disturb" sign and the room lighting made lethargy even more convenient. Even the sewing kit came with needles already threaded. Now that's service!